We decided to create a detailed cost guide for our customers to make it easier to understand the pricing for a bathroom remodel in Staten Island. Of course, it always depends on how much work you want done. Below, we have a short 13-second video showing a bathroom before the remodel. We did a full remodel on this one, so be sure to watch the video before checking the numbers to see how we used the materials effectively.
Materials play one of the two most important roles in a bathroom remodel cost, right next to labor costs. In this section, we will delve into material costs. This particular bathroom had an extensive overhaul, essentially creating a new category for issues often found in a basic bathroom renovation. The bathroom was from a Staten Island house dating back to at least 1890. We know this because we found letters from the first owner dating back to World War I, which we believe the customer donated to the Staten Island Museum. But that’s another topic. For now, here’s a list of unique issues this bathroom had due to its age, and if your house isn’t as old, you likely won’t encounter these problems:
Different Size Bathtub: Most standard bathtubs are 5 feet long by 30 inches or 32 inches wide. These sizes are significantly cheaper because they are mass-produced. In this case, a custom-sized bathtub would have been too expensive. Instead, we decided to adjust the enclosure to fit a standard bathtub, which immediately saved money. However, this adjustment required additional framing, involving some 2x4s and other materials, adding an unexpected expense. We could have eliminated the wall and opted for a frameless bathtub shower door, as shown in the image below.
Price range: 1200 to 1800 $
Price range: 600 to 900 $
We really liked the first option; it was different and beautiful, but it was out of budget this time. Then, we almost went with the second option. However, we recommended against it to our customer, who has a newborn baby. If you’re a parent, you know that a sliding shower door is a lifesaver. When you bathe your baby, you do it kneeling next to the bathtub, so you don’t have to get inside the shower and get wet if you don’t want to. It’s all about convenience, and keeping dry!
If your house is very old, you might not have sheetrock. Before sheetrock was invented, walls were made using a method called “lath and plaster.” This involved attaching thin strips of wood (laths) to the wall studs and then covering them with layers of plaster to create a smooth surface. This method can make demolition quite complicated.
Often, to avoid the tough job of removing these old plaster walls, people would simply screw new sheetrock directly on top of the existing laths or plaster. This practice creates a problem known as “build-up.” Essentially, you end up with layers upon layers of old materials buried behind the new walls.
For a true remodel, it’s essential that your contractor removes the wall down to the studs, ensuring that no old plaster from the 1860s is left behind. Leaving these materials can lead to structural issues and does not give you a completely fresh start. We’ll show you an image of what plaster walls look like.
The very first step in our process is demolition. We strip the bathroom down to the studs, removing all existing fixtures and finishes. There’s not much to spend on materials at this stage.
However, our first significant expense came when we realized there was no insulation at all. Along with addressing this issue, we also started framing the wall for the bathtub enclosure. For this, we used 2x4x10 wood studs and some screws.
After framing the wall and removing the many layers from this very old bathroom, we ensured insulation was in place at every edge. We noticed the electrical system was in poor condition, so we decided to start fresh and rewire the entire bathroom with new cables. We installed flat circular ceiling lights and a fan that not only vents the bathroom but also includes Bluetooth and lighting, which we think is pretty cool.
Note: Materials related to the exhaust fan include aluminum tape, silicone for the exterior cover that goes on the siding, the actual 8 ft aluminum hose for hot air escape, and additional connectors.
At this stage, we were ready to start closing up the shower area and the walls. The reason we mention them separately is that for the shower, you use cement boards, while for the walls outside the shower, you use sheetrock. Once this is done, we apply a white compound that smooths the walls, which we then sand down after it dries to achieve a nice, even finish.
For the shower, after closing it up with cement boards, we apply a waterproofing membrane called Hydro Ban. I like to describe Hydro Ban as plastic in liquid form. You apply it with a brush and roller like you’re painting a wall, and when it dries, it becomes a hard plastic layer on your walls that prevents water from penetrating. Best of all, it allows tiles to adhere very well to it, ensuring your bathroom stays watertight for years.
By using these materials, we ensure that your bathroom walls are not only aesthetically pleasing but also durable and waterproof, providing you with a high-quality finish that will last for years.
Imagine this: all the demolition, framing, electrical, and plumbing work is done, but you can’t see that because we’ve just closed up all the bathroom walls. So, what do we have left? At this stage, we decided to tile the shower walls. The customer requested tiling only inside the shower, which was great because it saved some money and allowed for a clean, distinct look.
Stopping the tiling at the shower’s edge instead of continuing to the outside walls is a matter of design preference. Some people love a lot of tiles, while others prefer to have tiles only where necessary so they can change wall colors and paint in the future. The customer chose a beautiful stone pattern for the wall where the shower handle is located. These stone tiles come in 1 ft by 1 ft squares, and they added a unique touch that made the bathroom stand out.
Note 1: You will see at the end of the post that on each wall where the tiles are, there are vertical “sticks” of tiles called bullnose.
Note 2: Black finish edge metal is what we used to decorate the niche (the hole inside the wall where the soap goes) so you do not see tile edges.
We’re almost at the end of this project, and next up was tackling the floor. Prepping the subfloor and using the right underlayment is crucial. There are several options: tiling directly on plywood with special glue (which we don’t recommend), using cement boards like HardieBacker, newer systems like Schluter sheet membranes, mud jobs, mortar beds, or self-leveling underlayments. For more details, read our Guide to Underlayment Before Tiling.
For any underlayment, a strong subfloor is essential. Most bathrooms in Staten Island have a plywood subfloor after demolition, but remember, we’re dealing with a very old bathroom. Instead of plywood, we had strips of wood directly on the studs. This made it impossible to use cement boards or other systems that require a plywood subfloor.
So, how did we work around this? The answer is a mud job. This involves using waterproof black paper, chicken wire or metal mesh stapled to the wood, and a mix of sand and cement to create our own subfloor. Even when there’s a strong plywood subfloor, we recommend a mud job because it’s durable and long-lasting.
We focused on the finishing touches: the window, closet, molding, and painting. In the video of the completed bathroom, you’ll notice a new closet that not only optimizes space for storing towels and other bathroom items but also elevates the look with a seamless design hidden inside the wall.
At the same time, we replaced the window and added base molding along the floor, as well as trim molding around the closet, door, and window. Once the molding was in place, we primed and painted the bathroom, bringing everything together with a fresh, clean finish.
Note: We did not change the old door because the customer wanted to keep it to match the rest of the doors in the hallway.
In the final phase, we installed a cabinet above the toilet, the vanity sink and faucet, a mirror, a GFI outlet, a shower door, and accessories like the toilet paper holder and towel hanger. We also installed the toilet. Before we left, we applied an impregnator sealer on the tiles, making the surface more water-resistant.
Here’s the sum of all the final totals from each phase:
The sum of all the final totals is:
$207.50 + $577 + $2,172 + $586 + $1,007 + $937 + $2,545 = $8,031.50
The final total for the entire cost in material for this project is $8,031.50.
If this number is higher than you expected, remember that this bathroom was old and challenging at every step. Your bathroom likely won’t require as much in materials as this one, which is why we chose it as an example. Also, consider that you can save money by choosing a less expensive vanity, skipping the $700 shower door, or opting for a cheaper bathtub. It all depends on the materials you want to use.
We’ve had customers who wanted a quick, affordable renovation for a rental property and managed to achieve a beautiful bathroom remodel in Staten Island, NY, spending just $3,500 to $4,000 on materials.
If you have any questions about the process of building a bathroom, the materials you should choose, or our charges for a remodel—whether it’s the $8,000 example or the simpler $4,000 project—please click here to send us a quick email, text, or call. We will respond as soon as possible.
Thanks for reading! At Good Hammer Construction, we are here to help you improve your home.
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